The vitamin C serum category is crowded with formulas that promise the world but deliver little more than orange-tinted disappointment. After testing countless iterations from heritage brands and indie darlings alike, I’ve found myself repeatedly reaching for two very different approaches: Clarins’ dual-phase Double Serum and Brickell’s surprisingly sophisticated retinol treatment.
These serums couldn’t be more different in philosophy. Clarins offers the maximalist approach—21 plant extracts in a bi-phase formula that requires daily shaking. Brickell takes the minimalist route, focusing on targeted actives without the botanical fanfare. One costs more than twice the other, but price doesn’t always tell the full story in skincare.
I spent three months alternating between these formulas on my combination skin, testing them through humid summer days and the transition into cooler weather. Here’s what actually works.
Quick Comparison
| Feature | Clarins Double Serum | Brickell Retinol Serum |
|---|---|---|
| Price | $95 | $40 |
| Size | 1.0 oz | 1.0 oz |
| Key Actives | Vitamin C, 21 plant extracts | Retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid |
| Texture | Dual-phase oil/water | Lightweight gel |
| Best For | All skin types, hydration | Anti-aging, men’s skincare |
| Packaging | Pump bottle | Pump bottle |
| Rating | 4.6/5 stars | 4.8/5 stars |
Clarins Double Serum: The Maximalist Approach
The first thing you notice about Clarins Double Serum isn’t the formula—it’s the ritual. The bottle requires a vigorous shake to combine the oil and water phases, creating a brief moment of mindfulness that feels intentionally luxurious. This isn’t accidental; Clarins has built an empire on making skincare feel like self-care.
The formula itself delivers on the sensory promise. It spreads like silk across damp skin, absorbing completely without leaving the tacky residue that plagues so many vitamin C serums. The finish is what I’d call “healthy skin”—not dewy, not matte, just naturally luminous.
After six weeks of consistent use, the radiance boost was undeniable. My skin looked clearer and more even-toned, particularly around the areas where my combination skin tends to look dull. The formula includes turmeric and sea lily extracts alongside the vitamin C, which likely contributes to the brightening effect without irritation.
The hydration factor surprised me most. Despite being marketed primarily for radiance, this serum provided enough moisture that I could skip my morning moisturizer on humid days—a rarity for someone with combination skin who typically needs both hydration and oil control.
But let’s address the obvious question: is a $95 serum with 21 plant extracts better than simpler formulations? The honest answer is that it depends on what you value. If you respond well to plant-based ingredients and prefer a multi-tasking approach, the Double Serum justifies its price point. If you’re skeptical of botanical extracts or prefer targeted actives, the premium feels excessive.
Brickell Retinol Serum: Quietly Sophisticated
Brickell markets primarily to men, but their retinol serum deserves attention regardless of gender. The formula combines retinol with vitamin C and hyaluronic acid—a combination that requires careful pH balancing to remain stable. They’ve managed this without the typical compromise in texture or efficacy.
The serum applies like water but doesn’t feel thin or ineffective. It layers beautifully under moisturizer and plays well with other actives, which isn’t always the case with vitamin C formulations. I noticed smoother texture within two weeks, and fine lines around my eyes appeared softer after a month of consistent use.
The vitamin C component provides gentle brightening without the orange cast or oxidation issues I’ve experienced with other L-ascorbic acid serums. The formula uses magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a more stable vitamin C derivative that’s less potent but also less irritating.
What impressed me most was the complete absence of fragrance or essential oils. Many “clean” beauty brands still include plant-based fragrances that can sensitize skin over time. Brickell’s approach feels genuinely gentle, which matters when you’re using retinol daily.
The packaging deserves mention too. The dark amber bottle protects light-sensitive ingredients, and the pump dispenses exactly the right amount. These details suggest a brand that understands skincare beyond marketing.
Winner by Category
Best Overall Performance: Clarins Double Serum
For pure radiance and immediate skin improvement, Clarins takes the lead. The multi-phase formula delivers more noticeable results faster, and the hydration boost makes it genuinely multi-functional. If you’re looking for one serum to address multiple concerns, this is it.
Best Value: Brickell Retinol Serum
At $40, Brickell offers impressive formulation sophistication typically found in products twice the price. The stable vitamin C, effective retinol, and thoughtful packaging make it a standout in the affordable luxury category.
Best for Sensitive Skin: Brickell Retinol Serum
The fragrance-free formula and stable vitamin C derivative make Brickell the safer choice for reactive skin. While Clarins is generally well-tolerated, the essential oils and plant extracts could trigger sensitivities in some users.
Best for Anti-Aging: Brickell Retinol Serum
The inclusion of retinol gives Brickell a clear advantage for addressing fine lines and texture issues. While vitamin C provides antioxidant protection, retinol remains the gold standard for visible anti-aging results.
Best for Radiance: Clarins Double Serum
Nothing I’ve tested matches Clarins for immediate glow. The combination of vitamin C, turmeric, and sea lily extracts creates luminosity that’s noticeable within days, not weeks.
The Verdict
These serums serve different purposes, and your choice should align with your primary skin concerns. If you want immediate radiance and don’t mind paying premium prices for botanical luxury, Clarins Double Serum delivers results that justify the cost. The sensory experience alone makes morning skincare feel indulgent rather than routine.
If you prefer targeted actives and appreciate sophisticated formulation without the premium markup, Brickell offers remarkable value. The retinol component makes it more versatile for anti-aging concerns, while the stable vitamin C provides gentle brightening without irritation.
For my combination skin in a temperate climate, I found myself gravitating toward Clarins during dull winter months when radiance was my priority, then switching to Brickell during warmer seasons when texture and anti-aging benefits mattered more.
Both formulas photograph beautifully under makeup and layer well with other products. Neither caused breakouts or irritation during extended testing, which speaks to their formulation quality regardless of price point.
The real test isn’t which serum wins in a laboratory comparison—it’s which one you’ll actually use consistently. Clarins feels like a daily luxury that makes you look forward to your skincare routine. Brickell feels like smart, no-nonsense skincare that works without fanfare. Both approaches have merit, and both deliver results that justify their respective price points.
Choose Clarins if you value immediate radiance, enjoy botanical ingredients, and appreciate skincare that feels like an experience. Choose Brickell if you prefer targeted actives, want excellent value, or prioritize gentle but effective anti-aging ingredients. You can’t go wrong with either choice—they’re both genuinely good serums that happen to take different approaches to vitamin C.